Trying to make homemade beer, but there's no home brewing house in my area. help!?!
Answers: I'm trying to make my own beer at home. I am able to get whole barley from the local feed store and I ordered some yeast online, but I don't know what I can use for hops in my brew, since there's no home brew house in my area. I was wondering about using orange, or lemon peelings or something simmalar to wine flavorings?
You don't want to use whole barley, you want malted barley for brewing. As far as supplies go, check out http://www.midwestsupplies.com or http://www.austinhomebrew.com
Also, I would recommend you visit http://www.howtobrew.com and http://www.homebrewtalk.com//index.php?r... for more information, and pick up a copy of Charlie Papzian's book 'The Complete Joy of Homebrewing'. Between those three sources, you'll learn everything you need to know.
Feel free to email me if you have any further questions.
edit: With your further details, I might recommend a gruit style beer. Gruit is the combination of spices and herbs they used before hops became a standard ingredient.
i dont know but i can make really good mead! HEHEHE
Obtain a 3 gallon container in which to conduct the primary fermentation. It should be constructed of a material that will not leech out toxic chemicals in the presence of alcohol. It should have a lid to keep bugs from getting in but which will allow carbon dioxide gas to escape. I use a plastic garbage can with a faucet at the bottom and a lid with an airlock at the top (available from beer supply stores).
Pour in about 1.5 lb of hop-flavoured malt extract (most economically obtained at grocery stores). For strong beer, add about 6 cups of sugar. Optionally, add about 2 tsp of fruit acid (if you are making a low alcohol beer, the acid helps retard spoilage - which should not be necessary if you drink it all up as fast as I do). Any fruit acid will do; I have used citric, which is cheap. Lemon juice could be used. Do not use ascorbic acid, it will retard the fermentation. A tsp of di-ammonium-phosphate (yeast nutrient, fertilizer) will speed the fermentation, especially in high-alcohol beers, but is not necessary.
Now, add water, 60-90 degrees Fahrenheit, up to a few inches below the top of your container. Do not fill it too full, or the fermenting mess will come out. Stir it all up thoroughly. If you have a beer hydrometer, (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED) check the specific gravity. It should be about 1.06, corrected for temperature. I suggest you buy a floating thermometer so you can correct for temperature. A beer hydrometer will also tell you what the alcohol content will be in the finished brew. The more sugar, the denser the liquid will be now (higher specific gravity) and the more alcohol the yeast will make. Six cups of sugar will give you about 7% alcohol (most commercial beer in the US is about 3.5%). Do not go above 9 or 10%, or you will kill the yeast and end up with a sweet, uncarbonated beverage. Also, do not drink 7% beer like 3.5% beer and don't drive after drinking a pint or more! If using a hydrometer, it is best to start out with less sugar than you think you will need and then adjust the specific gravity by adding more.
Now you are ready to add the yeast. I use dry yeast, available in beermaking supply stores. You could use bread yeast, but I don't recommend it. It gives the beer a yeasty taste and does not stand up to high alcohol contents. If you can't wait to get beer yeast, wild yeast (bound to be there unless you used sterilized ingredients) may do for low alcohol beer. If you have already made beer before, the sediment from the bottom of a freshly opened bottle contains enough yeast to start your new batch. Add the yeast, put the top on the container, place in a warm place (70-90 degrees F), and wait a week or two.
If you have a hydrometer, you may want to monitor the specific gravity. When it drops to 1.005, it is ready to bottle. I let the beer go to draught, when the fermentation (bubbling) stops entirely - no sugar left. At that point, the specific gravity will be a bit below 1.000 (alcohol being less dense than water). I "rack" the beer at this point, that is, siphon (or use faucet) it off of the inch or so of yuck at the bottom of the container. I rack it into a second 3 gallon container with faucet.
At this point, you need to add more sugar for the secondary fermentation, which carbonates the beer (and raises the alcohol content yet more). I use about 10 tbsp sugar. Start with less and check the gravity. You want the gravity to be 1.005. Be sure to correct the gravity for temperature (instructions with the hydrometer will tell you how). DO NOT allow the gravity to exceed 1.005! If there is too much sugar, your bottled beer will EXPLODE, which could be FATAL (I'm not kidding - I've seen exploding bottles drive pieces of glass through wooden cabinets!). Now, bottle the beer (use siphon or faucet). Do not use disposable bottles, they can't stand the pressure and are dangerous. I use one pint returnable soft drink bottles which I collected while they were still in common use. You can buy similar bottles from stores that sell beer making supplies. You need bottle caps and a capper. Alternatively, use the European beer bottles which have reusable caps and don't require a capper. Keep the beer at 70-90 degrees F. in a safe place for a week or so. Then put one bottle in the refrigerator. When cold, give it a try to see if it is adequately carbonated yet. If not, let the rest of the beer ferment in the bottles a few days longer. It yes, move it all into the refrigerator (I got a second refrigerator to hold all of my beer).
When you pour the beer out of the bottle (don't drink from the bottle), do it in one continuous movement. Watch the crud (spent yeast, cream of tartar) at the bottom of the bottle and stop pouring before it comes out. While there are lots of B vitamins in this crud, it looks nasty, does not taste good, and is a mild laxative (generates flatus too). This crud is not in commercial US beer because they artificially carbonate their beer. They also add all sorts of chemicals - detergent to make a head, for example. By the way, soft drinks can still legally contain 0.5 % alcohol, because that is the amount produced during a natural carbonation fermentation, as used to be done by the industry.
Cheap folks who refuse to buy a beer hydrometer can use this alternative method: Put the draught beer (no sugar left, fermentation completely stopped) into bottles and add sugar to the bottles. Use 0.5 to 1 tsp per bottle (12 to 16 oz), or use 0.5 tbsp of a 50% sugar solution (one cup sugar in one cup water). I do not recommend this method, given the great danger of explosion, great frustration of an undercarbonated batch, and cheap price (about $4 and up) of a hydrometer.
Keep your bottles, containers, etc. clean to avoid microorganisms that cause spoilage (you don't want 3 gal. of malt vinegar, do you?). Some folks routinely sterilize equipment with boiling water or chemicals, but I find that unnecessary except after having had a spoilage problem.
There are various laws regulating homemade beer production. An adult can make 100 gal. (200 per household) a year under federal law. I used to register as a wine producer with the Dept. of Firearms, Tobacco, & Alcohol, but I don't bother anymore, the law may not even require that any more. N. C. State law is fuzzy (says you must use native N. C. fruits). In any case, if you keep it at home, don't sell it, and don't give it away to narcs (alchs?, revenuers), you should not get in any trouble.
Supplies (including kits for beginners) are available by mail from E. C. Kraus, P. O. Box 7850, Independence, MO 64053 and from other places. I have no connection with this firm, but I have been so pleased with their products, prices, and service that I buy all of my supplies from them, excepting things I can get cheaply locally.
This has been a brief introduction to home brewing. Once you are into it, you may want to modify the recipe and try fancier methods. Think of the money you will save and the chemical-free delicious beer you will have.
You may wonder what a statistician is doing brewing beer. Well, modern statistics got its start in German astronomy, American agriculture, and European beer brewing. Famous statistician Gosset used the pen name "Student" because his employer, Guiness Brewery, didn't want competitors to know what statistics they were using to fine-tune their brewing process. Another explanation involves a more personal bit of history. I attended the University of Salzburg in Austria one summer, and having spent more time in the beer halls than in the lecture halls, I acquired a taste for strong, dark beer. As a poor graduate student in the southern and then the midwestern U. S. I could not afford to buy such beer, so I learned to make it myself. In fact, most of the ingredients could be bought with food stamps at grocery stores! I can better afford to buy such beer now, but I still make several batches a year.
Cheers, Bottoms Up, Prost, Salut, Sk?l, Sláinte, or you other favorite drinking salutation
I don't do it any more
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http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?pa...
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http://www.homebrewmart.com/
Hops are a key ingredient to beer. You can order hop pellets on line and they are as good as fresh hops. If you used wine flavorings you would get something similar to wine and you wouldn't have that great beer taste.