What exactly happens in a sheesha bar?!

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These places can vary widely from one bar to the next, but in generally, people sit and socialize around a hookah while they smoke some variety of flavored tobacco.
Drinks of all sorts are almost always available. They are usually lit in soothing warm colors (not exactly dim, but not bright either -- it makes the smoke look really cool when you exhale.) People of all sorts can be in one depending where you are, but for the most part I see a lot of 'young people' (in their 20s or 30s).
In most of the sheesha bars I've been into, it's fairly busy, a little crowded sometimes, and there is a lot of buzz with all the people talking around you.

I've been to a whole bunch of sheesha bars in the US and Europe.